CMelodyMan
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Replacing A PadOkay, I know that most of you probably think that replacing a pad is hard, but in reality, it's quite simple.
First you will need a good clear work surface to lay out parts. Remember, you will reassemble in reverse order from disassembly.
Remove the keys for the pads that are being replaced. It's probably better to do a section at a time. Be sure to keep keys and screws in order as that will greatly ease the pain of reassembly.
Once you have the keys off, clean the section. You can now polish your keys and replace the pads. Never use a wet polish. Use a dry polishing cloth.
Remove old pads from the cups by scrapping out the old pad. Clean the cup as much as possible. If you have trouble getting it clean, you can heat the pad cup with a match or lighter, or a small hand-held blowtorch to soften the old glue.
Put a small amount of glue in the pad cup and position the pad in the cup. Let this dry for 3-4 hours before attempting to reassemble or adjust the pads.
Reassemble the section.
Adjust for air leaks by using a match or lighter to heat the back of the pad cup until the glue is softened. Let the pad cup rest lightly against the tone hole. Test for leaks.
This process may take some trial and error, just keep working on it. In some cases (instrument dropped, etc.) you may need to straighten or slightly bend keys to get proper fit.
CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Never let the flame hit the pad or you will need a new pad.
If you have any questions about pad installation send me a PM.
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JPSaxMan
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And I assume you actually did this? Or is this a source from like SOTW or some other viable place of the like?
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CMelodyMan
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Yes, I've done this before. I'm an amateur repairman.
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CMelodyMan
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So far I've completely overhauled my c mel, and I'm in the process of overhauling my clarinet.
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JPSaxMan
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So if I follow your repair processes word for word I won't f*** up my saxophone?
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CMelodyMan
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Well, it depends on how carefully you do it, and it's always helpful to get your local repairman to help you, or someone else who is good at fixing stuff, to help you, as I did. All I can say is good luck, and try not to f$%6 your sax up.
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JPSaxMan
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I don't intend on touching my saxophones unless I have to...cha' kno what I mean?
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CMelodyMan
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I just think that it's useful to know these types of sax repairs, in case you need to fix your sax.
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JPSaxMan
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If I get a Serie III I might try doin this stuff to my Armstrong so I don't ruin my only alto!
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Doc Frazier
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Don't worry, if you mess up, I'll fix it for ya!
Doc
www.JandJWoodwinds.com
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saxmaniac
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Or me, I'm a repairmen too, only as ahobby though. :D
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JPSaxMan
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I think I'd rather go with Doc on that one, no offense saxmaniac
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saxmaniac
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Well, I have been doing this as a hobby for 28 years, but suit yourself. Doc probably is more experienced than me, :D
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JPSaxMan
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Holy cow! At that point you should make it your profession...ok, what are your rates?
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Thomas
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I've taken off the metal shield protecting the low Bb and low B pads, in order to glue a felt restrainer back on. I've also tightened loose screws here and there... Yep, that's the extent of my repair expertise.
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JPSaxMan
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My repair expertise....checking rod screws and uhh...not much else
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Thomas
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Haha!
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Doc Frazier
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CMelodyman, what kind of "glue" are you using?
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CMelodyMan
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I use stick shellac and contact cement.
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Doc Frazier
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Why contact cement for pads?
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CMelodyMan
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Well, at first I used stick shellac for the pads, and contact cement for the key corks and neck cork, but one day I decided to try contact cement on a pad, and now I prefer it because it's very strong, and it's easy to get off when you need to replace the pad. Do you use stick shellac? What you use is probably correct as I'm just a beginner repairman who has been self-taught, whereas you are a professional repairman.
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Doc Frazier
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It makes adjusting the pad tough because of the instant bonding properties when properly dried. It is strong though. Another thing you have to consider is the flammability of the contact cement and the need for proper ventilation because of the fumes. Not good for your well being either way. Stick shellac is the safest way to go.
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CMelodyMan
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Yeah, when I was putting in a few pads on my clarinet, I noticed that when I heated up the back of the pad cup, the contact cement caught on fire! I guess I'll have to try stick shellac again.
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Doc Frazier
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For clarinets, use french cement. It has a lower melting point than shellac so you don't roast the pads.
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CMelodyMan
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I've heard of french cement from an instrument repair book that I checked out from the library, but I can't find anyone who sells it. Where do you buy your supplies from?
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Doc Frazier
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Ferree's Tools, Ed Myers, Votaw Tools. Ferree's would be your best bet.
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CMelodyMan
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I'll have to try Ferree's tools. :smile:
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toktok
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I would just have to add, a small detail, just in case a novice tries to change a pad with a little torch... be very carefull not to over heat the cup, you will destroy your sax's finish! It happened to me you really have to heat it gradually, don't just stick the flame on it for 30 seconds, your face will just say OH **** what have i done!
Otherwise i agree not hard to do, i would go with the stick and not the cement.... personal pref....
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